Cruising on Last Dance


This blog archives the adventures of Glen and Jill Moore and provides a means of communication for friends and family. Exploration and adventure have been synonymous with boats and water for centuries. The joy of adventures shared while exploring new places and meeting new people has built a strong bond for Glen and Jill. Last Dance is the platform for the exploration.

"The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page." St. Augustine, 354 - 430

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.” Mark Twain, 1835 - 1910

"There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much worth doing as simply messing around in boats." The Wind in the Willows, 1908, Kenneth Grahame, 1859 - 1932

"I've never believed speed and ease are conductive to living fully, becoming aware, or deepening memory, a tripod of urges to stabilize and lend meaning to life." River Horse: a log book of a boat across America, 1999, William Least Heat-Moon,1939 -

The Great Loop -- The current adventure is a circumnavigation of the Eastern United States, cruising north up the east coast through New York into Canada, across the Great Lakes to Chicago, navigating multiple river systems south to Mobile, along the Gulf coast to the Florida Keys and back to St. Augustine. This trip by boat is commonly referred to as the Great Loop. Progress and current location are indicated by the red line on the map to the right. It was titled the Traceless Path in recognition of a German sailor we met in St. Augustine who published booklets of his travels with hand-drawn, detailed maps describing his travels across the water as the Traceless Path.



Friday, December 16, 2011

Mobile, Alabama



Entering Mobile Ship Channel, the end of the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway, is a shock.  One moves from quiet, natural river channels to a vastly busy industrial port.  Above, is a US Navy ship undergoing a refit.


Appears that someone did not measure the building correctly to fit this ship inside during construction.
















Mobile is also a large freight terminal.












Friends and Family


One of the great benefits of traveling the Loop is meeting new friends, sharing time with old friends, and visits with family.

Robert and Vicki, Gold Loopers (one who has completed the Great Loop)  invited the current Loopers passing through to Thanksgiving dinner at their home in Fairhope (across the bay from Mobile).
















The always popular dessert table.












Jim and Pam Shipp, Platinum Loopers (completed the Loop twice) and old friends, hosted us for a couple of great meals and for a lot of wonderful conversation.  Shrimp and oysters were enjoyed at the Dew Drop, one of those traditional good restaurants that only locals know.  (The waitress' unsteady hand blurred the photo but didn't affect the meal.)  Marian, Jim's mother, had an outstanding Low Country Boil at her home the evening prior.  Good food does help make for great times with friends.



Maintenance Time


Dog River Marina is a full-service boatyard with a good reputation.  The stop at Mobile was used to pull Last Dance for some maintenance.














New seals were installed on the Naiad stabilizer shafts and a general check of the underwater gear was completed.  Takes a big machine to lift a 40,000 pound boat.


















Remember those White Pelicans first seen on the Illinois River?  They stopped by Mobile, circling over the marina a dozen times, while Last Dance hung from the slings of the travel lift, as if to say: "Time to keep moving south."

Columbus, Mississippi




Columbus celebrates its favorite son, Tennessee Williams, in a colorful manner.  The head of the tourist bureau received a lot of grief about the colors chosen for the restoration of Tennessee Williams' first home, now serving as the Columbus visitors' center.  She claims research revealed that the colors used were original to this house.  It is not hard to find.





The house has been beautifully restored with period furniture and a few pieces that were an original part of the home and or Tennessee Williams history.



















Houses are a big part of the attraction of Columbus.  During the Civil War, none of the buildings in the town were destroyed, leaving many examples of early southern architecture.  Unfortunately, on the day these images were captured, gray skies and low light robbed them of the brightness of color and the fineness of detail.







Even more modest homes are replete with fine detail.











Columbus claims the beginning of Memorial Day, initiated when a group of women met at the House of 5 Gables, c. 1838, to walk to the cemetery together to lay flowers on Confederate soldiers' graves.  One woman stated that the Union soldiers in the graveyard were also sons, husbands, fathers, and brothers; their loss, too, should be recognized.  Thus, began the day of recognition of those who have given their lives in times of war.




An aside - Why are so many towns and places named after Columbus, a man who never set foot on the continent we now refer to as North America, and who did not even know of its existence?









Columbus was the only marina stop along the TennTom for the Last Dance crew.  There are only two towns on the waterway and the natural setting of an anchorage is preferred.  Columbus was a good choice - a nice marina with a good staff, a historic town, and good restaurants.









Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway


The Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway connects the Tennessee River at Iuka, Mississippi to Mobile Bay.  It is actually four rivers -- Tennessee, Tombigbee, Black Warrior, and Alabama -- that have been connected and deepened by use of dams and earth removal to provide a commercial waterway connection.  It is heavily used by commercial traffic with a high number of tows transporting various cargo.



First proposed in 1760, by a French explorer, and by many others over the years, the Tenn-Tom was not authorized by Congress until 1946.  Many delays, including lengthy suits by the railroad industry, postponed the start of construction until 1972.  It was not completed until 1985.


The Tombigbee River portion of the Tenn-Tom has some long straight sections created by digging a channel, closely following the original river bed, but much straighter.  The process digging to create the channels moved more earth than digging the Panama Canal.  The Black Warrior River portion of the waterway follows the natural river, which is deep enough for commercial traffic, but is very windy.  Oxbows, where the river curves, sometimes are back to back, requiring a boat to travel 5 miles on the river to make one mile "as the crow flies."

Click Here to view a map of Black Warrior Oxbows



For recreational boaters, the Tenn-Tom is a much more scenic and safer route than traveling down the lower Mississippi and is the link that made the Great Loop practical for many.  Natural surroundings line the riverbanks.  Small creeks feeding into the rivers create tight but protected anchorages.  Anchoring along the rivers themselves is not a wise or safe option as the tows travel 24 hours a day.  Below is a view of the White Cliffs of Epes along the western shore of the Tombigbee River.




Wildlife along the waterway, including the majestic Blue Heron, is another aspect of the beauty enjoyed.









Homes along the waterway are few, adding to the interesting views as one travels on the water.  Some are interesting in their massive size, while others have creative architecture or features.























































The choice of some is a big boat to go with the big house, others have boats uniquely designed.  The colorful items hanging inside the side of this boat are fishing lures.

Shanty boats were first encountered by Loopers along the TennTom, though they were not the only interestingly different boats.





This boat is constructed from bamboo with plastic water bottles for flotation.  Blue plastic tarps help keep water out of the boat and provide propulsion as sails.













Quite odd looking when seen from the stern, this boat proved to be just a trimaran with the mast down to be able to clear low bridges.
























Designed and built in Washington State, for travel along the Pacific coast, this boat has been cruising the river system for a few years.











There is all sorts of "stuff" sighted along the rivers, including a phone booth in someone's backyard.  It was an area with no cell phone reception, so it could have been useful.












This person thought it appropriate to locate his barn along the water with the house on the other side.  Wanting to keep things that someday might be useful again, his collection included a totem pole.











Procrastination on starting the restoration of the antique truck left it to the pulls of nature and into the river.












For some reason, the locals refer to this bridge crossing the waterway as the Dolly Parton Bridge.








Bashi Creek

Although few in number and small in size, creeks provided a safe harbor for anchoring overnight.  Their narrowness required both a bow and stern anchor to keep boats from swinging into the shore.  Bashi Creek was not only limited by depth, but by deadheads (logs, also called snags) across the creek.






Having a deadhead run under the boat and into the props had many a boat in the slings at a boat yard for repairs.


To understand the narrowness of Bashi Creek in comparison to the waterway, click the link below.

Click Here for Map

Zoom out on the above map to see another winding part of the river.





Small creeks create cozy anchoring arrangements.  The farthest boat is Happy Hours V, with an Australian couple cruising the Loop.










Okatuppa Creek




This creek had more depth and more room for boats, but Last Dance had the anchorage to herself the night visited.



















Being just a few hundred feet from the river, this anchorage provided views of the heavy barge traffic that travels the river.









And, the tows do travel by at night.  The locks operate 24 hours a day to accommodate the commercial traffic.










Foscue Creek




The area that could be used for anchoring was quite shallow, but there were two old barges tied to the shore in deep water.  These barges provided a secure mooring for Last Dance.


























Again, a private anchorage was enjoyed by the crew, with the exception of a family of Raccoons that live along the shore.  Jill was thrilled when the family visited Last Dance at night, the baby peering in the port over the bed.  Critters always add an exciting element of the nature surroundings.





Alabama River Cut Off


. . . so named because it is a short cut from the Black Warrior River to the Alabama River, provided another secluded, private anchorage for Last Dance.  The last anchorage enjoyed before reaching Mobile, Alabama.









The wildlife here demonstrated that the South had finally been reached as an alligator swam by the boat.









The Blue Heron who claimed this creek as his own put on a display of his fishing skills.










As Mobile was approached, the AIS (Automatic Identification System) alarms began sounding constantly.
When a commercial vessel is within close range, an image is displayed on the chart plotter and an alarm screams.  The red triangles on the screen indicate a commercial vessel less than a mile away.  The many, many green triangles indicate commercial vessels close, but more than a mile away.  The alarm had to be disarmed to keep the crew's sanity.



Mobile, Alabama, is the end of the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway and the end of river travel on America's Great Loop.

Sunday, December 11, 2011

Shanty Boats

The river systems tend to have smoother waters which do not require the most seaworthy of craft.  Oh, they can get rough in storms, particularly when the winds blow up the river rather than across it, but compared to the Great Lakes, Gulf of Mexico, and the Atlantic, they are comparably calm waters.

Rivers have called to people for centuries to ride their waters.  Tom Sawyer rode the Mighty Mississippi on a raft.  The Tennessee and TennTom are much quieter bodies of water.  Today, people cruise the rivers in boats not much more seaworthy than Sawyer's raft.  These folks prove that it does not take a large investment to be able to enjoy the waterways.  Their term for these vessels is "shanty boats."




The unnamed boat above is stopped along the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway so the boater can walk his dog.  This boat, and the one on the left, are constructed on aluminum floats from an old pontoon boat.  All Ya Need, the name of the left boat, is descriptive of the boater's philosophy on cruising.  Instead of a port of call, he has painted "Shanty Boat" across the back.






Slanty Shanty, the most rustic of the shanties encountered, had an interesting story.  The boat was constructed with a plywood deck floating on blue, 55 gallon barrels and dock floats.  Powered by a 9.9 outboard, it has a top speed of 2 mph.  A young couple piloted this boat from Pittsburgh, down the Ohio and Tennessee Rivers with the goal of making it to Panama City, Florida.  They did accomplish most of the trip, ending the journey at the Naval Air Station in Pensacola.  After a rough crossing of Mobile Bay, where following seas swamped the outboard, they decided that the big bays between them and Panama City were more than the shanty boat could handle.  And, they had a buyer for the boat in Pensacola (you thought this was a tough boat market).  Appropriately, the young lady who led this adventure is named Faith.  (That's a pet chicken in her lap below.)




Reading List

Living on a shanty boat was once a way of life in which many lived.  In Shanty Boat: A River Way of Life, Harlan Hubbard describes a four-year journey undertaken by he and his wife down the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers, during 1944-1948.  Their self-built boat was made of timbers from a building that was being torn down.  It was an unpowered barge, controlled on the downriver flow with long paddles, called sweeps, on deck and with a rowed john boat tied to it to assist with steering in sometimes heavy currents.  When upriver travel was needed, as when they traveled up the Cumberland River to spend a summer in Kentucky, the shanty boat had to be towed. They lived off the river and land, trading fish caught on the rivers for dairy and meat, and spending the summer at one spot along the shore where they could cultivate a garden - a way of life that would be difficult to duplicate today.  Shoreside land owners easily gave the Hubbards permission to tie the boat to their land and allowed them to have a nearby piece of land to maintain a vegetable garden.  Today, many waterfront landowners get quite angry if a boat even anchors in view of their property and the river fish population is much less.  Shanty Boat is well written and detailed description of their years living on the rivers.